Chiang Mai to Udon Thani

8 December 2023

Hitting the Road in Northern Thailand: Chiang Mai to Tak

The next stage of our Thailand adventure continued today as we left Chiang Mai and headed south towards the coastal town of Prachuap Khiri Khan, our Christmas destination. First overnight stop was Tak, 270km south.

Waving Goodbye to Chiang Mai

We rolled out of 3Season at 8:30 am, eager to explore new sights. Our scenic journey began on Chiang Mai to Lamphun Rd, a majestic avenue lined with some 1,500 towering, ancient rubber trees.

A quick stop at Wat Tham Nam Bo Kaeo, a fascinating temple undergoing construction/renovation, was a delightful detour. We even had a chance to chat with a friendly monk who spoke impressive English and showed genuine interest in our travels through Thailand.

Fueling Up (Literally and Figuratively)

A necessary stop at PTT provided us with both fuel for the car and sustenance for our journey. Lunch break complete, we continued southward, arriving in Tak shortly after.

The SOHO Hotel became our home for the night. After settling in and enjoying a relaxing afternoon rest, we ventured out for a stroll along the river. Our walk led us across the impressive 200th Anniversary Memorial Bridge, where a chance encounter with a French Canadian and his Thai wife turned into a friendly conversation about expat life in Thailand.

Night Market Delights

To cap off the day, we indulged in a delicious meal at the vibrant local night markets before turning in for the night at our comfortable hotel

9 December 202

Our day in Tak started with a delicious breakfast buffet in our hotel’s dining room. It was very nicely set out, and had a reasonable range of Thai dishes.

After checking out of the hotel, we stumbled upon a fascinating spectacle – a grand Thai wedding celebration unfolding right outside! We watched in awe as the vibrant procession moved between the hotel and the convention centre, offering a glimpse into a more upscale Thai wedding tradition compared to the village weddings we’d witnessed before.

Leaving the wedding behind, we set out on a scenic drive towards Mae Sot, stopping to admire a majestic white Buddha perched on a hilltop. The unmarked location added to the mystique of the giant statue.

The highway between Tak and Mae Sot proved to be a bustling artery, snaking through the mountains and with countless trucks navigating the curves and hills. AT one point I swear the Thai might has built a tourist Taj Mahal or we made a really wrong turn.

Thankfully, our next stop, the Mue Soe Hill Tribes Market, offered a break from the winding road. This sprawling market brimmed with fresh produce and friendly faces. We even got to sample some delicious avocado (highly recommended!) and found some unique coffee cups as souvenirs.

Continuing our journey, we encountered a precarious sight – a truck negotiating a curve a little too sharply and ending up on its side. A stark reminder to take it slow on these winding roads.

Our next stop was the Chaopho Phawo Shrine, a vibrant temple nestled in the mountainside. Being a weekend, the atmosphere buzzed with activity as families visited, paid respects at the shrine, and enjoyed the lively market stalls. Firecrackers crackled,roosters, both real and in statue form, added to the lively atmosphere. and the air was thick with the aroma of delicious food.

Arriving at our hotel, the Central by Centara, we checked in and quickly surveyed our room before setting off to explore Mae Sot proper.

Our first port of call was Wat Thai Watthanaram, a stunning temple boasting a unique Burmese influence. We were impressed by the ornately carved teak facades, gleaming gold accents, and the festive activities of people. The highlights were undoubtedly the enormous reclining Buddha and the multitude of dazzling golden structures and statues.

Next, we ventured to the Rim Moei Markets on the Thai-Myanmar border, a place where cultures collide. Thai soldiers patrolled the border, razor wire acting as a stark divider.

On the other side, vendors sold cigarettes and alcohol across the divide, while the Moei River flowed serenely in the background. We had reached the westernmost point of Thailand! A truly unique perspective on the border between these two countries.

After a satisfying lunch at Robinson Lifestyle, we sought tranquility at Wat Mai Suwan, a serene temple with intriguing statues.

Our afternoon concluded with a drive to the Blue Cave, a captivating cave nestled amidst farmlands. The cave housed Buddhist shrines and a surprising number of beehives and bats!

On our way back to the hotel, we made a final stop at Wat Sunthreekawas, and then meandered through the lively night markets for dinner before finally calling it a day.

10 December 2023

After a night of decent sleep (though perhaps not award-winning!), we fueled up for the day with a simple breakfast of coffee and Weet-Bix. With bags packed we checked out of our hotel and set off back towards Tak, retracing our steps over the mountain range.

The return trip over the range was uneventful, though we did notice a change in the landscape where the overturned truck had been. The trailer was gone, leaving a somewhat worse-for-wear prime mover behind – a stark reminder of the importance of caution on these winding roads.

By 10am we were back on the main highway, continuing our journey towards Nakhon Sawan. A stop at a PTT provided a chance to top up the fuel tank, and a quick detour led us to the lively Wang Chao Market. This market was a treasure trove, bursting with fresh produce, clothing, household goods, and everything in between. We couldn’t resist adding to our coffee cup collection with some unique finds from a Hilltribes stall – all at a steal of only 25 baht each ($1)!

Our next stop was Wat Khao Wang Chao. A steep climb up a set of stairs awaited us, leading to a gleaming golden Chedi at the summit. The lower level offered a collection of golden Buddhas in various shapes and sizes, with the impressive Buddha Sukhto Gotama taking center stage.

Deciding to take the scenic route, we ventured off the highway, following a quiet country road that hugged the mountains near the Myanmar border. Midday found us making a pitstop at another PTT, indulging in the classic 7-Eleven convenience store experience. Alison even braved a 7-Eleven chicken burger, and surprisingly, emerged unscathed (and perhaps even slightly satisfied!).

Back on the main highway, we stumbled upon the Leelawadi Resort Farm, a new farm stay establishment under construction. The colorful barn-style bungalows caught our eye, reminding us of a similar farm stay we’d encountered earlier in the year. The friendly proprietor even gave us a personal tour of the facilities.

Wat Phrai Sawan was our next stop. Here, a welcoming monk unlocked a hall, revealing breathtaking artwork depicting historical battles between the Mongols and the Thais. A fascinating glimpse into Thai history presented in a vibrant visual style.

Rejoining the main highway, we couldn’t resist a quick detour at 2:30pm to capture the stunning panorama of a majestic mountain range stretching across vast rice fields. This same area also introduced us to Wat Khao Nor, a temple teeming with monkeys! Needless to say, we opted for a car-bound audience with the primate residents.

Finally, by 4pm, we reached our destination for the night – the B2 Nakhon Sawan hotel. After settling into our room, we ventured out at 6pm in search of dinner. A scenic lake with an exercise path and surrounding food stalls provided the perfect setting. We enjoyed watching a local exercise class, marveled at the breathtaking sunset over the lake, and savored a delicious meal before calling it a night.

11 December 2023

Thailand Travels: Smoky Skies, Giant Trees, and Hermit Havens

We set off from our hotel at 8:46 am, heading towards Suphan Buri.

Was parked next to a cool Thai 4wd this morning in our hotel carpark. So well optioned.

Unfortunately, a layer of smog marred the otherwise picturesque drive through rice fields and against a backdrop of majestic mountains. By 10am, a caffeine fix was calling, and we found ourselves at the delightful Dee CafĂ©, situated right by the Khun Kaen River. Their cakes were heavenly, and the cappuccino was arguably one of the best we’d had in all of Thailand!

Back on the road, we took a detour off the highway to visit the Giant Tree, a revered 300-400 year old specimen located in Ban Rai. The surrounding area bustled with produce stalls and vendors offering delicious treats.

Next on our itinerary was Wat Tham Khao Wong, a captivating wooden temple nestled amidst a forest on the shores of a tranquil lake. The main structure, built into the mountainside, boasts four stories, along with caves, an artificial waterfall, and beautifully landscaped grounds below.

After a quick lunch stop, we found ourselves two hours down the road at a place that piqued our curiosity – “The World’s Largest Hermit Park” according to Google Maps. It turned out to be Phra Ruesi Park, named after Ruesi, a type of Southeast Asian jungle preacher or healer. While not strictly religious, the park offered unique photo opportunities, making it a worthwhile stop.

Our final temple visit before reaching Suphan Buri was Wat Khao Tham Thiam, an awe-inspiring site under construction. This marvel is being carved out of a disused marble quarry and features an enormous sculpted Buddha. Having visited briefly in December 2022, we opted for a shorter stop this time due to the unfavorable afternoon sun for photography.

Finally, just before 4pm, we arrived at our Suphan Buri haven – the K2 Green Hotel. After checking in, we ventured out to the Big C shopping center for dinner at their food hall. With satisfied bellies, we returned to the hotel to park the car and then embarked on a walk to the Dragon Descendant Museum in time for sunset.

Soft, beautiful colors painted the sky as we explored the tranquil grounds, enjoying the peacefulness of the near-closing time. Our exploration was eventually cut short by the night watchman’s gentle “eviction” to allow him to lock up the site for the night. With that, we headed back to our hotel, our day filled with unique discoveries and serene moments.

12 December 2023

We decided to treat ourselves to a leisurely lunch at Robinson’s Lifestyle Centre, followed by a stroll through the mall to browse the shops and soak up the air conditioning (a welcome respite from the heat!).

Back at the hotel for some afternoon relaxation, we later ventured out with dinner in mind. However, to our surprise, Big C seemed like a ghost town – everything was closed, even the ever-reliable KFC! Undeterred, we made our way back to Robinson’s, where their food park offered a delicious selection of options, saving the day (and our rumbling tummies!).